Theyyam - A remarkable sacred art form of God’s own Country

Though I had read and seen it all in the media, it was my first face-to-face introduction with one of the most vibrant ritualistic dance found in North Kerala. Pottan Theyyam… I watched the entire five hour performance with awe.



Preparations for the Theyyam



The ceremony began late evening with what is called “Thottam Pattu” which was story recital on origin of Pottam Theyyam. The story goes like this. When Sree Sankaracharya was going to ascend Sarwanjha Peedam, Lord Siva decided to test his knowledge and appeared before him disguised as a Dalit. Siva approached as 'Pulapottan', along with 'Pulachamundi'(Goddess Parvathy ) and, 'Pulamaruthan' (his minister Nadikesan). Sankaracharya requested them to move away from his path as he did not want to be contaminated by coming near to the lower caste. 'Pottan' debated with Sankaracharya saying that “it is same blood that flows through our veins” and “we reap the rice and that is served as food for you”. Thus revealing the emptiness of caste system which splits the humanity into foolish fragments and enlightening Sankaracharya.

Thottam Pattu is followed by the arrival of the Theyyam  as "Pulamaruthan", " Pulapottan" and "Pulachamundi" robed in ribbons of coconut leaves and different masks of deities. You could hear the anklets as Theyyam moves around interacting with people and giving the blessings. In between, the performer moves round and round and the “tantris” suddenly clash the burning logs sending out sparks on the Theyyam giving a fierce atmosphere.

Though the Pulapottan was comical and fun, making sarcastic comments on the elders of the ancestral house asking if they were serving the gods well, I was dumbstruck during the performance of lying over the red-hot embers. That was an extreme display beyond human ability. It was mid-summer and we couldn’t stand next to the heap of burning charcoal due to the heat. And here, Theyyam was refusing to get up from the scorching ashes till the spectators constantly requested and accepted his terms.

After this scary portion, it was time for Theyyam to have one on one session (literally) with each of the devotee asking their issues and concerns and consoling them with his blessings and advices. And then the performance ends with a sacrifice and a promise that his presence will be there always.

Pottan Theyyam is certainly a breath-taking watch giving you mixed emotions with the whole ambience of fire and sparks, sounds of anklets ,spells and colorful masks and funny remarks from Theyyam himself.

-Chalked by Rashmi